[NB as far as I know, Wegman's is still a Monroe County, NY local independently owned supermarket chain that sets the standard for grocery stores. Maybe they are doing some localwashing when it comes to their produce, but I don't know. But I refuse to categorize them with Safeway.]
Sorry, Safeway. Tough break, Wegmans.
Unfortunately for you, the jig is up—we know you're not giving us local food.
Yes, recently shoppers have been holding supermarkets' "locally grown" claims up to the light, and finding them full of holes.
Buying local has become more and more appealing lately. Shoppers like the idea of shrinking their carbon footprint and supporting the local economy. Plus many have caught on to the secret that produce from small farmers in their immediate area simply tastes better. So big grocery stores have jumped on the trend.
This is where the problem begins, found Laura Vozzella in a recent story in the Baltimore Sun. In area grocery chains, Vozzella found multiple instances of signs advertising local produce above fruits and vegetables that actually traveled thousands of miles.
Lest you think the phenomenon is confined to the East Coast, the Ventura County Star in Southern California ran an opinion piece on the very same topic. The author of this commentary found his grocery store manager harbored a very different notion of what constitutes local foods (coming from somewhere within the USA) than the average consumer (who thinks more in the 100- to 200-mile range of the point of sale).
The big problem, it seems, is that when it comes to local fruits and vegetables, the economy of size breaks down. One large outlet in a big city cannot keep locally-grown produce in stock, mostly because the nearby farms have small operations. Multiple farmers markets, on the other hand, can meet the demands. Case in point: the clientele of the Dupont Circle market has grown faster than a zucchini in August over recent years, yet by the closing bell, the vendors have produce to spare.
Another factor is the vast geographical range of big stores. They end up on the same marketing cycle across the country while growing seasons roll through on very different schedules.
So what's a consumer looking for the benefits of local produce to do?
My answer, albeit a bit predictable, is to hightail it to the nearest farmers market. There, you can be sure your produce, dairy, eggs, and meat were culled from the local area—or if you're not sure, you can ask and get an honest answer. Most markets in the D.C. area only allow vendors from farms within a certain radius.
If you need to grab all of your groceries in one place, and that place is a large grocery store, you may still be able to get truly local food. Just do a little investigation before you buy. Checking PLU stickers is a good way to go if you want to determine if your produce is local (hint: if the individual fruits or veggies have stickers to begin with, they're probably not). And yes, you can always ask the store manager (just be sure you're on the same page about the definition of "local").
If you truly want local, though, put your money on a farmers market.
